Recent advances in the study of wind waves

Mathematical Analysis of Random Noise

1944 • 5,333 citations

Mathematical Analysis of Random Noise

1945 • 2,791 citations

Measurement of the Roughness of the Sea Surface from Photographs of the Sun’s Glitter

1954 • 2,428 citations

A proposed spectral form for fully developed wind seas based on the similarity theory of S. A. Kitaigorodskii

1964 • 2,409 citations

Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications

1964 • 1,409 citations

On the generation of surface waves by shear flows

1957 • 1,377 citations

On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum Part 1. General theory

1962 • 1,316 citations

Mass transport in water waves

1953 • 1,241 citations

A theory of the origin of microseisms

1950 • 1,132 citations

Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ‘surf beats’

1962 • 1,119 citations

On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves

1952 • 985 citations

The Extrapolation, Interpolation and Smoothing of Stationary Time Series with Engineering Applications.

1952 • 815 citations

Mathematical Analysis of Random Noise-Conclusion

1945 • 802 citations

On the generation of waves by turbulent wind

1957 • 783 citations

The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves

1958 • 696 citations

Doppler Spectrum of Sea Echo at 13.56 Mc./s.

1955 • 677 citations

On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude Part 1. The elementary interactions

1960 • 646 citations

Variational methods and applications to water waves

1967 • 614 citations

Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents

1960 • 604 citations

Wavetrains in inhomogeneous moving media

1968 • 496 citations

Shearing flow over a wavy boundary

1959 • 494 citations

The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents

1961 • 445 citations

On the formation of water waves by wind

1925 • 439 citations

On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to white capping

1974 • 430 citations

Instability of periodic wavetrains in nonlinear dispersive systems

1967 • 430 citations

Hydrodynamics of oceans and atmospheres

1960 • 426 citations

Propagation of ocean swell across the Pacific

1966 • 377 citations

On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum Part 2. Conservation theorems; wave-particle analogy; irrevesibility

1963 • 307 citations

On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. Part 2

1959 • 272 citations

Resonant interactions between waves. The case of discrete oscillations

1964 • 244 citations

Directional recording of swell from distant storms

1963 • 244 citations

Stokes drift for random gravity waves

1969 • 220 citations

Wave‐driven inertial oscillations

1970 • 216 citations

Feynman diagrams and interaction rules of wave‐wave scattering processes

1966 • 210 citations

XXXII. On waves

1876 • 203 citations

On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. Part 4

1962 • 203 citations

Resonant interactions between two trains of gravity waves

1962 • 193 citations

Non-linear gravity wave interactions

1962 • 189 citations

Resonant interactions among capillary-gravity waves

1965 • 184 citations

On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 3. Evaluation of the energy flux and swell-sea interaction for a Neumann spectrum

1963 • 168 citations

The generation and propagation of ocean waves and swell. I. Wave periods and velocities

1948 • 157 citations

Laboratory studies of wind–wave interactions

1968 • 156 citations

Physical interpretation of the mathematical theory of wave generation by wind

1962 • 153 citations

A nonlinear mechanism for the generation of sea waves

1969 • 143 citations

On the generation of surface waves by turbulent shear flows

1960 • 143 citations

Flow in a deep turbulent boundary layer over a surface distorted by water waves

1972 • 132 citations

Mass, momentum and energy flux in water waves

1962 • 128 citations

On the mass and momentum transfer between short gravity waves and larger-scale motions

1971 • 128 citations

On Wilton's ripples: a special case of resonant interactions

1970 • 127 citations

Directional energy spectra of the sea from photographs

1969 • 126 citations

Mass transport in the boundary layer at a free oscillating surface

1960 • 124 citations

Energy transfer between external and internal gravity waves

1964 • 121 citations

Determination of Ocean Wave Spectra from Doppler Radio Return from the Sea Surface

1971 • 116 citations

On the high Reynolds number flow over a wavy boundary

1969 • 115 citations

On the generation, dissipation, and prediction of ocean wind waves

1968 • 114 citations

Spectral dissipation of finite-depth gravity waves due to turbulent bottom friction

1968 • 111 citations

Wind action on water standing in a laboratory channel

1966 • 104 citations

Measurements of atmospheric pressure on wind-generated sea waves

1971 • 102 citations

Long waves on the continental shelf: an experiment to separate trapped and leaky modes

1964 • 98 citations

Doppler Spectra in Microwave Scattering from Wind Waves

1971 • 92 citations

Nonlinear interactions treated by the methods of theoretical physics (with application to the generation of waves by wind)

1967 • 90 citations

Grundgleichungen der Seegangsvoraussage

1960 • 85 citations

Die turbulente Strömung an welligen Wänden.

1937 • 77 citations

On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. Part 5

1967 • 76 citations

Microscale pressure fluctuations near waves being generated by the wind

1972 • 76 citations

Action of a Variable Stress at the Surface of Water Waves

1969 • 74 citations

An experiment on third-order resonant wave interactions

1966 • 73 citations

On the transformation of a continuous spectrum by refraction

1957 • 72 citations

Measurements of third-order resonant wave interactions

1966 • 72 citations

ON THE THEORETICAL FORM OF OCEAN SWELL. ON A ROTATING EARTH

1950 • 68 citations

Direct measurement of aerodynamic pressure above a simple progressive gravity wave

1967 • 65 citations

On prediction of the turbulent flow over a wavy boundary

1972 • 58 citations

The scattering of gravity waves by turbulence

1959 • 57 citations

The generation of waves by wind

1952 • 56 citations

Scattering of surface waves by an irregular bottom

1973 • 55 citations

A numerical wave prediction method for the North Atlantic Ocean

1971 • 54 citations

A study of Fetch-limited wave spectra with an airborne laser

1971 • 52 citations

Mechanics of the Air—Sea Interface

1967 • 50 citations

Mass transport in deep-water long-crested random gravity waves

1969 • 49 citations

Hydrodynamic stability of the flow in the laminar boundary layer between parallel streams

1954 • 49 citations

Laboratory studies of the velocity field over deep-water waves

1970 • 48 citations

The Vertical Mean Wind Profile Over the Ocean for Light to Moderate Winds

1970 • 48 citations

A further investigation of wind generated waves

1959 • 45 citations

The directional spectrum of ocean waves, and processes of wave generation

1962 • 45 citations

On the turbulent flow over a wavy boundary

1970 • 43 citations

An investigation of storm waves in the North Atlantic Ocean

1955 • 38 citations

Finding the Direction of Travel of Sea Waves

1954 • 38 citations

The Generation of Wind Waves on a Water Surface

1953 • 38 citations

A note on an overshoot effect in wind-generated waves

1968 • 36 citations

Response of gravity water waves to wind excitation

1969 • 36 citations

The spectrum of waves at short fetches

1959 • 36 citations

Normalized and Equilibrium Spectra of Wind Waves in Lake Michigan

1971 • 34 citations

Laser and Microwave Observations of Sea-Surface Condition for Fetch-Limited 17- to 25-m/s Winds

1970 • 33 citations

On the attenuation of long gravity waves by short breaking waves

1963 • 33 citations

A Diffraction Analysis of a Photograph of the Sea

1949 • 31 citations

VARIABILITY IN DIRECTION OF WAVE TRAVEL

1949 • 30 citations

Eine kritische Bemerkung zum Neumann-Spektrum des Seeganges

1956 • 25 citations

A note on the interaction between surface waves and wind profiles

1965 • 24 citations

Growth of spectral components in a wind-generated wave train

1968 • 23 citations

Second-Order Scattering from the Sea: Ten-Meter Radar Observations of the Doppler Continuum

1972 • 23 citations

Elementare Theorie der Wasserwellen und des Fluges

1916 • 15 citations

Beitrag zur Entstehung von Wasserwellen durch Wind

1949 • 15 citations

Some evidence on the effect of nonlinearity on the position of the equilibrium range in wind-wave spectra

1961 • 14 citations

A Sensitive Linear Capacitance-to-Voltage Converter, with Applications to Surface Wave Measurements

1971 • 12 citations

Hydrodynamical Analogy to E = m c<sup>2</sup>

1959 • 11 citations

On the generation of sea waves by a turbulent wind

1972 • 10 citations

The damping of a group of sea waves

1971 • 9 citations

SOME FEATURES OF WIND WAVES IN LAKE MICHIGAN

1970 • 6 citations

Shore-based recorder of low-frequency ocean waves

1958 • 5 citations

Gleichzeitige Messungen des Seegangs mit nicht-stabilisierten Beschleunigungsschreibern an Orten mit unterschiedlicher Wassertiefe in der Deutschen Bucht

1967 • 3 citations

Shipboard observations of wave spectra with a bow-mounted wave height sensor

1973 • 2 citations

Acerca de la propagación de ondas oceánicas sobre una esfera

1961 • 1 citations